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Deadly Trans Fats Almost
Everywhere, Tests Find

By Andre Picard
The Globe and Mail
12-11-3

"According to research, ingesting just one gram of trans daily... increases a person's risk of heart disease by about 20 per cent. Yet, Canadians ingest, on average, more than 10 grams of trans fats daily."
 
Trans fatty acids, a man-made oil described by a leading nutritional scientist as a "secret killer," are present in significant quantities in fast foods and other restaurant fare, according to tests commissioned by The Globe and Mail and CTV News.
 
"There is a broad spectrum of restaurant food which is quite high in trans," said Bruce Holub, a professor of nutritional sciences at the University of Guelph, and a leading expert in the field.
 
"It's hard to avoid trans" if you're eating outside the home, he said.
 
Yet, Canadians spend more than one-third of their food dollars - more than $42-billion annually - eating in restaurants and buying take-out food.
 
In the process, they have become the largest consumers of trans fats in the world - a product that has been linked to a greatly increased risk of heart disease, diabetes and Alzheimer's disease.
 
An analysis conducted by an independent laboratory found trans fats in every single restaurant product tested.
 
The products included chicken nuggets, battered fish, spring rolls, Danish pastries and even foods thought of as healthy fast-food alternatives such as pizza.
 
According to the tests:
 
* Five small chicken nuggets from Kentucky Fried Chicken contained almost four grams of trans fats; * A Tim Hortons apple Danish contained almost three grams; * Two spring rolls purchased at Ontario's Chinese food chain Ho-Lee-Chow had almost two grams of trans; * A single piece of fish from an order of fish and chips at restaurant chain Casey's Bar and Grill contained more than one gram; * A slice of double-cheese pizza from Pizza Pizza had almost half a gram of trans.
 
The Centre for Science in the Public Interest has done similar testing on fast foods, and came up with equally alarming results. The centre found, for example, that:
 
* A large order of Burger King fries contains six grams of trans fats, compared with four grams for Wendy's; * A&W onion rings also contain six grams of trans; * A Tim Hortons sour cream glazed doughnut clocks in at five grams of trans, while the Krispy Kreme counterpart has just over four grams; * An order of Burger King hash browns has a whopping eight grams of trans; * A chicken pot pie at Swiss Chalet serves up five grams of trans; * An original cinnamon bun from the Saint Cinnamon chain of bakeries and mall locations, contains four grams of trans. * An Admiral's Feast - a platter of fried shrimp, scallops, clams and fish - at Red Lobster contains a heart-stopping 22 grams of trans fats.
 
According to research, ingesting just one gram of trans daily - the equivalent of one chicken nugget or two slices of pizza - increases a person's risk of heart disease by about 20 per cent. Yet, Canadians ingest, on average, more than 10 grams of trans fats daily.
 
Walter Willett, chairman of the department of nutrition at Harvard University and author of some of the most damning studies, has said that as many as 33,000 deaths each year in North America can be linked to trans fats. He has dubbed trans fats a "silent killer" that should be removed from all foods.
 
Trans fats are created by bubbling hydrogen gas through vegetable oil at high temperatures. When liquid oils are partly hydrogenated, their molecular structure is altered and they become more solid, more stable and less greasy tasting. Most restaurants, from greasy spoons to high-end restaurants, use a pourable shortening that is 20- to 30-per-cent trans fats.
 
While consumers can read labels to determine whether store-bought foods contain trans - and new labelling laws will make trans content far more explicit by 2006 - there is no way of doing so easily in restaurants. (Even companies such as McDonald's that provide extensive nutritional information on their websites, still do not reveal the trans fats content of their menu items.)
 
"You need nutritional information at the point of purchase, whether it's a supermarket or a restaurant," said Rosie Schwartz, a consulting dietician with the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Canada and author of The Enlightened Eater's Whole Foods Guide.
 
"When you're buying that bargain double burger, fries and shake, you don't only need to know the price, you need to know the cost in terms of health as well," she said.
 
There are, in fact, moves afoot to make rudimentary labelling mandatory on restaurant menus and fast-food menu boards, but they are being fiercely resisted by the industry.
 
The good news for consumers is that individual restaurants and chains are responding to growing consumer concern over trans fats.
 
Paul Methot, vice-president of distribution-commissary at Pizza Pizza, the country's largest pizza maker, said the chain is intent on getting the trans fats out of their products as soon as possible, even though the trans content pales in comparison to other fast-food outlets. Last month, Ruby Tuesday, a 650-restaurant chain in the United States, said it is becoming trans-free. From now on, its fried foods will be prepared in canola oil rather than shortening.
 
McDonald's also made a big splash on the issue, announcing in September of 2002 that it would reduce the trans fats in its fries by half by February, 2003. One lobby group, BanTransFats.com, alleges that since then, the fast-food giant seems to have quietly backed away from the promise.
 
The group, made famous for suing Kraft over the trans in its Oreo cookies (an action that prompted the reformulation of the iconic kids' snack), has filed a lawsuit. "I don't think most people realize that McDonald's has not followed through on its promise," said Stephen Joseph, the CEO and founder of BTF.
 
He is suing to force McDonald's to bring down trans levels, something it has already done in Europe. "There is absolutely no excuse to have more trans in America than in Europe," Mr. Joseph said.
 
He predicted that if the litigation is successful "it's going to be a very, very big deal ... trans fats will effectively disappear from restaurants."
 
In the meantime, however, trans fats are omnipresent, and they will likely remain so until consumers take a stand.
 
"Parents, in particular, have to take a stand," Ms. Schwartz said. "They can't abdicate their responsibility to help kids, forming healthy eating habits and minimizing consumption of trans fats, at home and outside the home. It's an important part of that educational process."
 
- With reports from Avis Favaro, CTV News medical reporter, and Jenny Wells, a CTV producer
 
© 2003 Bell Globemedia Publishing Inc. All Rights Reserved.
 
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20031208.wtrans1208/BNStory
 

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