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Bizarre Cargo Cult In A
South Seas Culture Clash

The Asian Pacific Post
6-21-4
 
On the island of Tanna in the South Pacific nation of Vanuatu, islanders have spent the last 60 years dressing up in homemade US army uniforms, drilling with bamboo rifles and parading beneath the Stars and Stripes.
 
On February 15 each year local men celebrate John Frum Day by painting red crosses on their backs - a legacy of US army medics who impressed them six decades ago with free treatment. They have even hacked air strips out of the jungle and built crude wooden aircraft to tempt the return of American wealth and co-operation, which they say fits with their own beliefs.
 
Many of the 20,000 islanders of Tanna belong to the mysterious John Frum movement and are among the last remaining "cargo cults" of the South Pacific.
 
The cultists who live in so-called John Frum villages are one of the strangest, most intriguing and longest lasting legacies of the European colonisation of the South Seas.
 
However a shadow looms over their future as a breakaway faction wants them to move with the times and embrace Christianity.
 
This feud came to a violent head recently when the Christian faction led by "Prophet Fred" clashed with John Frum believers thrusting this forgotten part of the planet back into the media spotlight.
 
In the bloody encounter involving 400 islanders armed with axes and spears, dozens were injured, at least 25 seriously. Half a dozen houses and a thatched Presbyterian church were burnt down.
 
"They wanted to kill us and we wanted to kill them," said Jack Yahlu, 27, a John Frum loyalist. "All the women and children ran away into the bush. We used knives and slingshots, axes and bows and arrow. One person had a broken arm, others were cut on the head," he was quoted as saying by the BBC.
 
His rival and a Prophet Fred follower Alfred Wako said: "In the past we believed in John Frum, but now we believe in Jesus."
 
"The John Frum people don't go to church and they don't send their children to school. They believe in the old rituals. They are heathens," said Wako, 49, who was injured in the leg in last month's battle. The two factions live in villages separated by 300 meters of dense jungle in the shadow of Mt. Yasur, a volcano which regularly pours out clouds of sulphurous smoke.
 
The John Frum cult first emerged in Vanuatu in the 1930s, when the island was jointly ruled by Britain and France as the New Hebrides. Kirk Huffman, an anthropologist who lived in Vanuatu for 17 years, said: "Nobody knows who John Frum was, though it is irrelevant whether he was a real person or a spirit. Movements like these were a way for traditional people to come to terms with colonialism and Christianity. Vanuatu's culture would have been entirely squashed if it wasn't for cults like John Frum."
 
The John Frum movement reached its zenith when American soldiers arrived on the island during the second world war.
 
According to a website on the issue, John Frum was probably an American G.I. who appeared to the indigenous population, showing them the wealth and technology of western societies. It was a culture shock.
 
He quickly became a sort of local hero, a myth, preaching some kind of antimissionary attitude and a return to custom. He promised them that, one day, the prosperity of Westerners will finally be accessible to the local black population.
 
He was responsible for the "magic" appearance of all the material goods that once fascinated the indigenous like fridges, ships, vehicles and medicine. Rebelling against the aggressive proselytising of Presbyterian missionaries, dozens of villages on the island of Tanna put their faith on the mysterious outsider they called John Frum.
 
The believed that he would drive out their colonial masters and re-establish their traditional ways. Similar movements sprang up in Papua New Guinea and the Solomons, but most have slowly withered and died.
 
There now remain a few dozen of these so-called John Frum villages on the island of Tanna where locals dream of the arrival of cars and refrigerators, roads and medicines.
 
Since the violent clash, the two sides have come together in a reconciliation ceremony, in which pigs and promises of goodwill were exchanged in front of chiefs who had gathered from all over Tanna. But few on either side of the divide believe the feud is at an end, and there are dark forebodings of further violence.
 
©2004 The Asian Pacific Post. All rights reserved.


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